This may have been my best Christmas present. My wonderful mum, who chose it for me, knows that I have a ticket to see Mr Rayner live in Nottingham in a few months (I can’t wait) when he will regale the audience with some of his worst reviews and sing some jazz songs about food – what’s not to like?
This volume contains some of his most acerbic autopsies of restaurants which have, in the main, since closed down or have had to radically rethink their act.
Each review includes, as well as his pronouncement on the quality of the food, the cost of a meal including wine and service. My favourite one is Spoon at Sanderson in a review of 2000, where the cost is ‘whatever the management can get away with’.